02 03 Airsoft Tech Talk: Maintaining Your Gas Blowback Magazines 04 05 15 16 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 31 32 33

Maintaining Your Gas Blowback Magazines

34
This is a really common question from just about every airsofter out there. What is the best way to maintain my GBB magazines?

#1 is to mind what you feed it. The best method is to use green gas that already has a silicone lube mixture inside it. The more popular alternative is a propane bottle with a fill adapter because this is much cheaper. Care must be taken with this latter step, however. It is highly advisable that you apply several drops of fine silicone lube to the top of the propane bottle before screwing on the adapter. I recommend doing this for at least every 3rd magazine fill.

The number one killer of GBB magazines is worn, cracked, or dried out o-rings. An o-ring leak will obviously bleed off whatever gas you have stored in the fill chamber slowly, or quickly, depending on how bad your leak is. The best measures are preventative measures. Keep your o-rings hydrated and they will last a long time. Raw propane gas has a tendency to dry things out. This can be exacerbated by temperature extremes too. Freezing, or shooting extremely fast (if your gas allows it) in cold temperatures can adversely affect the performance of the o-rings.

There are lubes out there designed to "breathe new life into" dry o-rings. They are usually marketed under the name of "Gas Blowback Magazine Saver" or the like. I have used these with good success - most of them do work well. Generally you depress the valve on the back of the magazine, place a few drops of the lube into the top of the gas chamber opening, and then fill your magazine with gas. Typically you leave the mag sitting upright for a period of time up to 24 hours or so. I prefer to vent the contents of the magazine afterwards, rather than fire it through the weapon as the lube can tend to find its way down your barrel otherwise.

#2, after o-rings, valves are the weakest link in the GBB magazine. These are usually made of brass, plated brass, or in some cases, aluminum, or steel. 90% of the time, they will be brass due to brass having good self-lubricity properties. Potential for brass to be damaged, especially when screwing it into harder metals, such as aluminum or steel are there. It can be easy to damage the threads or chew out the slot for your screwdriver, or even bend valve if you monkey too hard with it. The valve usually contains two or more o-rings depending on design. These o-rings are usually the ones that die over time. Finding and replacing these o-rings can be a real pain, to impossible in some cases. 90% of the time, you're simply better off saving yourself the time, grief, and agony by just biting the bullet and replacing the valve altogether. Additionally, some valves are rather complicated affairs of engineering, and don't lend themselves easily to being dissembled without completely compromising the structure to the point of making it impossible to reassemble. If your valve is bad, try to rehydrate the o-ring first. If this doesn't work, take it apart, replace what o-rings you can access or can determine to be bad. If that still doesn't work, replace the valve. Valves can be expensive, so once again, preventative maintenance is the key here to ensuring long life.

I have read of some folks using automotive gasket sealer to seal the valve to the magazine body. I really don't recommend this because it can be near impossible to remove a bad valve due to this stuff. Remember: most valves are brass. It doesn't take much effort or a bad slip to chew up the slot and completely trash your ability to remove a valve.

Another common issue with valves is the valve plunger fails to depress consistently or drags. This is usually the result of gunk, debris, or bad manufacturing process (a machining burr) preventing it from working properly. Blow it out if you can. If it doesn't work after this, then it is likely a defect and should be replaced. Plungers are another item that is difficult and time consuming to fix.

#3 is relatively simple. On GBB pistol mags, it pays to keep your feedway for your BB's clean. Lube and debris tends to collect in this channel during firing. If you observe closely, it is not uncommon for this to severely contaminate the cleanliness of your BB's. This translates itself directly to your barrel, which translates to decreased accuracy. The feeble pipe cleaner is your friend here. Lock your spring back, double up the pipe cleaner in half, and clean that channel out. Your BB's will thank you and your barrel will thank you.

#4, I have never personally seen or heard of a case where the gas chamber of a magazine was cracked or compromised in such a fashion as it leaked like a sieve. Typically these are milled or case from a solid block of steel or aluminum. It would be very hard to destroy one. Your o-rings and valves will go out first before you ever destroy the main gas chamber.
35 36 37 38